Emilia-Romagna and the case for Lambrusco
Properly experiencing Emilia-Romagna involves arriving with an empty stomach and maybe a decade of time! Home to globally recognized delicacies such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, ravioli, lasagna, and balsamic vinegar, it is no wonder that this region with a capital city aptly named “Bologna” has delighted food lovers for centuries.
With a
culture that is so culinarily rich, it is surprising that Emilia-Romagna does
not boast an equally compelling and recognizable wine such as Piedmont’s Barolos
or the Chiantis of Tuscany. In 2020, Emilia-Romagna produced about 6.7 million
hl of wine (74 million cases!) making it Italy’s third-largest wine producing
region.[i] Within this ocean of wine, we find Lambrusco
– nomenclature for both the grape varieties and the wine produced from them.
And if there is any wine from this region that deserves consideration to be the
signature wine, it should be Lambrusco!
First, Lambrusco
is a diverse and ancient vine cultivar. In fact, Lambrusco is not a singular
grape variety, but a family of 8-17 related varieties (depending on which
source you read!). Of these varieties, Lambrusco Salamino is the most planted.
The variety is so named because the berries are short and cylindrical
resembling a salame. The resulting wines range from secco (dry) to sweet
(dolce) with red and black fruit notes. Lambrusco Grasparossa is often regarded
as the highest quality variety and its wines are intensely purple with floral
and dark plum notes. Lambrusco di Sorbara produces high-acid, floral wines that
are lighter in color. Other varieties of note include Lambrusco Maestri with
its intense fruitiness and Lambrusco Marani.
In addition,
there are eight Lambrusco designations of origin (DOPs), established in 1970,
which prescribe permitted yields, styles, minimum alcohol, and percentage of
varieties allowed in the wines. DOPs such as Lambrusco Grasparossa di
Castelvetro, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, highlight
the diversity of Lambrusco’s varieties by requiring 60-85% of the stated grape
as opposed to allowing a blend.
Secondly, the
wines themselves are diverse. Most wines produced from Lambrusco are red, but
colors range from white to deep purple. Stylistically the wines can be bone dry
(Extra Brut/Brut) to cloyingly sweet (Dolce). The extraction of color and
tannin occurs through maceration or a soaking of the grape skins with the juice
of the berries. Since Lambrusco varieties are naturally high in anthocyanins,
maceration is limited to 1-2 days or slightly longer if a more tannic style is
desired.
Lambruscos are produced as sparkling wines –
typically frizzante (lightly sparkling), but they can also be spumante
(fully sparkling). To create the fizz, the base wine must undergo a
secondary fermentation. For most Lambruscos this happens via the Charmant or
tank method. However, some producers will produce a “Metodo Classico” bottling
where the wines undergo secondary fermentation in bottle.
Furthermore,
there is a growing number of producers focused on quality production. While
quantity-focused cooperatives continue to dominate production, increasingly
quality minded producers are finding their way into the export market. Examples
to seek out include Cleto Chiarli, Lini 910, and Rinaldini. The wines of Cleto
Chiarli have been produced for over 150 years and many of them are labeled by
variety or by a proprietary name because they believe that simply labeling a
wine Lambrusco “would fail to do [their wines] justice.”[ii] Lini 910 has been producing Lambrusco since
the 1910s and specializes in dry styles made by both the tank method and Metodo
Classico. Rinaldini produces Lambrusco exclusively from their 15 ha (about 37
acres) of vines and has been a family-owned estate since the 1960s.
While
Lambrusco’s reputation as a quality wine has undoubtedly suffered from the
shadow cast by large producers – television viewers of the 1970s and 80s may
remember “Riunite on ice, that’s nice!” - it is well past time to give this
sparkling wine another chance. The recognized diversity of varieties, the rise
of dry styles, the growing number of quality producers on the export markets,
and the wine’s friendliness with food should all serve to make Lambrusco a wine
worth seeking out. And perhaps when visiting Emilia-Romagna, one should go
hungry AND thirsty – but hold the ice!
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